What Do Beef Cattle Eat?

What Do Beef Cattle Eat? 

The ingredients that go into livestock feed are called feedstuffs. The feedstuffs cattle consume consist of roughages, grains, oilseeds and byproducts.

Roughages

Roughages are coarse, indigestible ingredients that provide bulk to the diet and promote normal bowel functions. In the human diet, foods like lettuce and grains provide the roughage we need to stay healthy. In the beef cattle diet, common roughages include hay, silage and grass. Silage is a crop that has been preserved in a moist, succulent condition by partial fermentation in a tight container (silo) above or below ground. The majority of the food cattle eat comes from this type of feedstuffs.

Roughages are mainly filler in the cattle’s diet. They are high in fiber but relatively low in energy.

Grains

Grains are high in energy but low in fiber. Common grains fed to cattle are corn, milo, barley and oats. Milo is a drought-resistant type of grain. Much less grain is needed in the cattle’s diet than roughage is. This is because grains fill cattle energy needs more than it fills their stomachs. 

Cattle are fed more grain the older they get. They gain weight faster when they are on higher amounts of grain. This is how cattle are finished off before they go to market. 

Oilseeds

Oilseeds are very important in the cattle’s diet. They perform many functions such as providing energy, proteins and some fiber to the cattle’s diet. Some examples of oilseeds are soybeans and canola meal. 

Co-products

Many co-products used for cattle feed are leftover ingredients from food production for humans.

Some common co-products fed to cattle include distiller’s grains, sweet corn cannery waste, bakery waste, grain screenings and apple pomace. Some of these products, such as grain screenings, are used as fillers. Others of these products, such as corn products, are very sweet and should be fed at a minimum. 

Cattle have a very diverse diet. Cattle eat a variety of feeds that provide them with different nutrients.

Source: AnimalSmart 

Overcoming 7 Obstacles to Cat Ownership

Overcoming 7 Obstacles to Cat Ownership

You’d like to have a cat or you wouldn’t be reading this. But something’s holding you back from making the commitment. Maybe you’re afraid that cat allergies will have you wheezing and sneezing. Maybe you’re worried that cat scratching will ruin your furniture. Maybe your spouse or roommate refuses to let a feline join your happy home.

Whatever the reason, there are solutions. We’ve gathered some of the most common obstacles to cat ownership, along with suggestions on how to tackle each.

Cat Allergies

While the ideal solution for allergies is to avoid what you’re allergic to, you can minimize symptoms with a little work. But the first step is to visit an allergist to make sure you really do have cat allergies. Once you’re certain that cats trigger your symptoms, get the facts.

For example, it helps to know that people with cat allergies aren’t actually allergic to hair, but to proteins found in cat saliva, urine and dander. Stepping up kitty baths is not necessarily the solution, however. While bathing a cat can reduce your exposure to this protein, the effect is short lived, and bathing kitties too often can irritate their sensitive skin.

It will be easier on both of you if you make these adaptations:

• Make your bedroom a cat-free zone. It’s the place where you spend the most time, so keep this spot a cat-free sanctuary to help reduce allergy symptoms. If you also switch to special bedding designed to be less permeable to allergens, you may start the day significantly less wheezy.
• Demolish dander. Vacuuming, dusting, and sweeping more often can reduce the buildup of pet dander (where much of that allergy-inducing protein attaches). And make the job easier on yourself by minimizing carpets, heavy drapes, and upholstery in your house.
• Wash up. Washing your hands and face frequently can help significantly reduce your exposure to dander.
• Filter the air. Change house air filters regularly and look into installing an air purifier with a HEPA filter.
• Try medication. Both over-the-counter allergy medications and allergy shots can help relieve allergy symptoms. Over time, allergy shots can also help reduce cat allergy symptoms.

Cat Shedding

Just as shedding hair is normal for people, so is it for cats. Felines usually lose more hair in spring, as the weather warms. But cats also shed because of medical issues such as stress, poor diet, allergies, medication, infection, and sunburn. To help minimize normal kitty hair loss, the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) suggests:

• Feed your cat a healthy, balanced diet.
• Brush and groom your cat regularly.

While grooming your cat, check for suspicious hair loss, redness, bumps, cuts, fleas, ticks, or other parasites. If you see signs of any of these problems or just aren’t sure why kitty is shedding so much, visit a veterinarian.

Cat Litter Box Issues

If the thought of litter box smells is keeping you from getting a cat, you’re not alone. With daily care, however, litter box odor is easy to control. And keeping a clean litter box will also help ensure that your cat will use it. To help minimize odors and maximize the chance of your cat using a litter box consistently, try these strategies:

• Buy scoopable (clumping) litter, or small-grained clay litter, as research shows that cats seem to prefer fine-grained litter. As with any litter, you’ll need to clean the litter box daily, and dump the entire box and start fresh about once a month.
• If bringing home a new kitty means you’ll have more than one cat in the house, be sure you’ve got enough litter boxes -- ideally, one for each, plus one more. For example, if you have three cats, you should have four litter boxes. If a cat can’t use the litter box due to cat traffic jams, or if the box is consistently dirty, he may begin to go outside the box.
• Don’t overfill a litter box to avoid cleaning it as often. Clean litter up to twice a day if there are multiple cats using a box. Aim for about an inch or two of litter per box.
• Some cats prefer a cover on the litter box, but most don’t. Covered boxes tend to trap and magnify odors, so they need cleaning more often. Large cats may also have trouble maneuvering in them. The answer? Try both kinds of boxes, covered and uncovered, and see what your cat prefers before settling on one.
• A cat that consistently eliminates outside a litter box may have a medical problem. Always talk to your veterinarian before presuming the issue is unsolvable. It could be something that’s easy and inexpensive to address.

A Housemate Doesn’t Want Cats

This is too big an issue to boil down to a quick solution. But here are two strategies to try when you want a cat but the person you share your home with doesn’t:

• Talk it out. Learn why your spouse or roommate doesn’t want a cat. Maybe she prefers dogs. Or maybe she would like a pet one day, but now isn’t the right time. Talk about the pluses of cat ownership: love, purpose, fulfillment -- and even better, health. Studies show that having a pet can lower a person’s blood pressure, reduce anxiety, and even diminish depression.
• Offer solutions. If your roommate or spouse is resisting cat ownership for issues you can tackle, such as shedding or odor, talk about how they can be addressed. Or the problem could be numbers: You’d like multiple cats, but she can only cope with one cat. See if you can compromise. Perhaps she’s just not sure whether she wants a pet. In that case, fostering a cat could be a way to test the waters.

The key is to begin the conversation. In the end, if your spouse or roommate is still against getting a cat, you can soothe some of your cat craving by volunteering at a shelter or humane society.

Cat Aggression

Cats fight one another and us for many reasons, emotional and physical. Territorial, inter-male, and maternal aggression are a few of the most common. And, of course, sometimes it’s just overly rambunctious play. While solutions depend on the cause, here are some to consider:

• Talk with your vet. Cats can become aggressive due to serious illness, so it’s vital to rule out a physical cause for a cat’s aggression.
• Encourage appropriate play. When cats are aggressive toward a person, it’s usually because they’re frightened or they’re playing. To prevent a cat from playing rough, never use your hands or feet as playthings. Offer many toys and spend time playing with them with your cat. You might also consider adopting another cat as a playmate or providing a more stimulating environment, such as an outdoor enclosure.
• Consider spaying and neutering. Intact males are more prone to aggressive behavior, and one intact cat can affect the behavior of others. So be sure all felines in a household are spayed or neutered.
• Ease competition among cats. If you have more than one cat, you can prevent competition by providing multiple food and water bowls, and have one box for each cat plus one more in different parts of the house.
• Provide pheromones and perches. Encourage the cats in a multi-cat household to spread out by providing hiding spots and perches throughout the house. You can also buy artificial pheromones that mimic a natural cat odor (undetectable by humans); these can help cats stay calm.
• Use short-term medication. Prescribed by your vet, these can help while you’re dealing with cat aggression. Never use over-the-counter medications -- especially those meant for humans -- unless recommended by your vet. Some drugs that are safe for humans can be fatal to cats.
• Restrain, but don’t punish. Don’t hit your cat for being aggressive, as it will only spur more aggression, as well as fear. But don’t let cat aggression go unchecked, either. To stop a cat fight in progress, make a loud noise, squirt the cats with water, or throw something soft at them. Don’t try to pull apart two fighting cats.

Solving aggression problems between cats takes time. Enlisting the help of a family vet, a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (ACVB), or a certified applied animal behaviorist (CAAB) can make it easier.

Cat Health Care Costs

If you’re concerned that cat health care is too expensive, it’s good to know that cats tend to be healthy and usually don’t require a lot of pricey care. That said, they still need regular exams and vaccinations. And like human medical care, veterinary care can be costly. Fortunately, there are options to help manage the cost:

• Pet insurance. It costs money, but it can potentially save you money, too. There are many options available. Some pet insurance is affiliated with national pet store chains and others can be purchased through a local veterinarian. Talk with other pet owners or do an online search to get an idea of the available options and what they cover.
• Subsidies through a local shelter or chapter of the Humane Society (HSUS). If you have trouble affording care for your cat, they may offer subsidized health care or know of local groups that do.
• Veterinary school discounts. Vet schools sometimes offer discount services to the public. You can locate a veterinary school near you through your vet or the American Veterinary Medical Association website.

Cat Scratching and Other Behavior Issues

It’s in a cat’s nature to scratch. They scratch to remove frayed bits of claw, to mark territory, to work off energy, and to play. Yet you can have both a cat and nice furniture by giving kitty some other outlets. Try these solutions:

• Scratching posts. Provide several scratching posts made of sisal, cardboard, or wood. Scent the posts with catnip to get your feline friend interested.
• Claw caps. Also called “nail caps,” these tiny vinyl sleeves slip over a cat’s claws, painlessly preventing him from doing damage when he tries to scratch. They are available online and at pet stores and many veterinarians.
• Nail trimming. Trimming a cat’s claws isn’t difficult, especially if you start while your furry friend is young. You can get tips on claw trimming on the web sites of the ASPCA or HSUS.
• Declawing. This is a controversial practice, so you should consider the pros and cons carefully. A cat’s claws grow from the bones of their digits, so permanently removing a claw means amputating the last joint of each digit. If you’re thinking of adopting a kitten, the Humane Society suggests a more sympathetic solution: Immediately introduce your kitten to scratching posts and other acceptable objects to satisfy his itch to scratch.

Talk to a vet, veterinary behavior specialist, or CAAB. If you bring a cat into your life and find you can’t get a handle on one of her behavior issues, always talk to a veterinarian to rule out health problems. Simple issues like a urinary tract infectioncan cause a cat to vocalize, stop using the litter box, or even become aggressive. Rule out problems such as these before assuming your cat is incorrigible and beyond redemption. If the cause is behavioral, a CAAB or veterinary behavior specialist can help. Many offer remote consultations and can work closely with your own veterinarian.

Cats can fill a home with purring warmth, silly play, and lots of affection. Yet before adopting a cat, be sure you’re ready for the commitment of a lifetime -- the cat’s lifetime.

Still not certain? Talk to your local veterinarian about briefly fostering a cat or kitten, or offer to ”cat-sit” for a friend. Either way, you’ll get a taste of the bliss -- and a few of the burdens -- of living with a cat.

Source: Pets WebMD 

Can Dogs Eat Nuts? Find Out Which Nuts Are Safe — And Which Aren’t

Can dogs eat nuts? Can dogs eat almonds, peanuts, pistachios and other nuts? Here's why the the answers aren't as simple as you think.

As humans, we seem to have an inherent desire to share the things that give us pleasure, especially foods. With a world of information available at our fingertips, it only makes sense to inquire what human foods are safe for dogs to eat before we offer them to our pets. Dogster has looked into various food groups and asked if dogs can eat fruits, vegetables and dairy products. Now, we turn our attention to popular snack nuts. So, can dogs eat nuts? Can dogs eat almonds? What about peanuts, pistachios, cashews and other nuts?

Can dogs eat nuts? First, a general word on dogs and nuts

Can dogs eat nuts? Well, the answer to, “Can dogs eat nuts?” isn’t so straightforward.

Can dogs eat nuts in their shells? Although some nuts may not contain native toxins that adversely affect dogs, the shells of all nuts present the risk of tearing tissue as they move through a dog’s digestive tract. Can dogs eat nuts out of their shells then? The meat of many nuts contains high quantities of fats that can cause upset stomachs. Many store-bought, commercially-available nuts are also packaged with salt and other chemicals, which can dehydrate or even poison dogs.

Can dogs eat nuts covered in chocolate or other candy coatings? These types of nuts are even more dangerous. Chocolate is toxic to dogs.

And can dogs eat nuts that are raw? On the whole, even raw nuts seem to be unwise food choices for dogs, even if they are given in moderation as treats. Old nuts that have mold on them present a whole load of other problems and should be kept away from dogs. Mold toxins can cause seizures, neurological distress and liver problems for dogs. In fact, moldy foods of any kind or variety — no matter where they sit on any version of the food pyramid — should be disposed of properly.

So, can dogs eat nuts of any kind? With all these cautions and provisos out of the way, let’s look more closely at the question: Can dogs eat nuts? And can dogs eat nuts like almonds, peanuts, pistachios, etc.?

Can dogs eat almonds?

Can dogs eat almonds and if so, are almonds good for dogs? As with most of the nuts we’re looking at here, almonds are not … technically toxic for dogs. However, as with most of these nuts, almonds are high in fat, making them difficult for dogs to digest in large quantities. Fatty foods can be dangerous for dogs because they exceed the capability of their pancreas to break them down and process them. Too much fat in a dog’s diet can lead to pancreatitis.

Can dogs eat peanuts?

Peanuts are one of the most common nuts that come to mind when thinking, “Can dogs eat nuts?” If they are raw or roasted, removed from their shells, and unsalted, dogs can safely eat a few peanuts. Dogs don’t tend to experience peanut allergies as frequently or as violently as humans do, but those food allergies do exist. Peanuts do contain more fat than is usually good for dogs, so a few peanuts should be okay, but proceed with caution. This is especially true if your pet tags along to dog day at your local baseball park, where peanuts may litter the bleachers.

Can dogs eat peanut butter?

Whether dogs can eat peanuts and whether they can eat peanut butter seem to be different questions altogether. Creamy peanut butter, with as low of a sodium content as possible and in limited quantities tends to be a safe and entertaining treat for dogs. If amusing YouTube videos are any evidence, dogs really seem to enjoy a spoonful of peanut butter. Here at Dogster, though, we wouldn’t recommend feeding a dog anything simply for entertainment. Also, make sure any peanut butter you’re feeding your dogs does not contain xylitol, which is toxic to dogs.

Can dogs eat pistachios?

Removed from their shells, pistachios can be okay for dogs, but are not recommended. Pistachios are not toxic to dogs, but have too high a fat content for dogs in large quantities. Do not give dogs pistachios that are still inside the shell, which, like other nuts in the shell, can cause digestive blockages that can be dangerous in their own right.

Can dogs eat cashews?

Cashews are high in fat, and it doesn’t take many for a dog to reach the limit of their recommended fat intake. Too many can lead to weight gain and pancreatitis.

Can dogs eat walnuts?

As with most of the nuts when wondering, “Can dogs eat nuts?” walnuts are too high in fat for dogs. That aside, walnuts also tend to be larger than nuts such as peanuts or pistachios. Dogs don’t chew their food as thoroughly as humans do, so larger nuts, like walnuts, are more difficult to digest. Unprocessed, larger nuts can obstruct a dog’s bowel movements.

Can dogs eat pecans?

No, and for all of the same reasons as walnuts. Not only are they too high in fat, but too large and difficult to digest. Another frequent problem for dogs and nuts is stomach upset if they eat too many.

Can dogs eat sunflower seeds?

If they are unsalted and removed from their sharp shells, yes, sunflower seeds are okay for dogs in small amounts. Another one to watch out for on the ground or in the bleachers at ballgames.

Can dogs eat macadamia nuts?

This is the most toxic nut when thinking, “Can dogs eat nuts?” Macadamia nuts are the grapes and raisins of the nut kingdom. They are highly toxic to dogs, even in limited quantities, but no one is yet certain why. Of course, unless you live in Hawaii, Australia, or certain countries in Africa or South America, a dog’s risk of accidental ingestion is probably small. A few macadamia nuts can cause real short-term neurological problems for dogs — tremors, dizziness and even temporary paralysis. Your dog is better off without macadamia nuts.

A few parting thoughts to the question, Can dogs eat nuts?

It is important to remember that, voracious eaters as dogs can be, they are generally much smaller than people. This means that dogs will often have trouble processing and digesting things that present humans with relatively few issues. Based on our research, it seems the best course of action when it comes to dogs is to keep them away from nuts.

Source: Dogster 

Top 5 Most Deadly Horse Diseases

Most Deadly Horse Diseases

Infectious horse diseases are those that horses can get from each other, or via a transmitter such as a mosquito or tick, which may transmit the disease from horse to horse. Knowledge is key to prevention. Here are some of the most common horse diseases: 

Potomac Horse Fever

This disease is most often seen in spring, summer, and early fall and is associated with pastures bordering water sources such as creeks or rivers. PHF is an acute enterocolitis syndrome producing mild colic, fever, and diarrhea in horses of all ages, as well as abortion in pregnant mares.

The bacterium responsible for the disease, Neorickettsia risticii, has been identified in flatworms that develop in aquatic snails (who knew!). When the water warms up, infected immature flatworms are released from the snail into the aquatic environment. These immature flatworms can be ingested by horses drinking the water, but more commonly they are picked up by aquatic insects. Infected insects (such as mayflies) will hatch in mass and might carry the organism to horses to ingest as they graze (thehorse.com).

Signs Of PHF 

• loss of appetite
• fever
• depression
• decreased intestinal sounds
• diarrhea
• mild colic

Affected horses might also develop signs of laminitis. PHF can be mild to life-threatening, so if you think your horse is showing signs of PHF you should contact your veterinarian immediately. PHF can be diagnosed by laboratory identification of the organism in a blood or manure sample from the horse by polymerase chain reaction (PCR). If caught early, it can be treated successfully with oxytetracycline.

Prevention: Several vaccines are commercially available. These might not completely prevent illness, but they may reduce its severity if the horse is exposed to the organism. Consult with your veterinarian to decide the best course of action.

Equine Herpesvirus (EHV)/Rhinopneumonitis

With recent outbreaks of EHV in 2015, horse owners are somewhat aware of the dangers of this highly contageious virus. EHV is characterized by respiratory infections, paralysis, abortions, inflammation of the spinal cord, and occasionally death in young horses. EHV is extremely contagious, spreading through nasal secretions, contact with infected horses, and contaminated feed and water utensils. Type 1 (EHV1) and Type 4 (EHV4) are the most clinically important.

Signs of EHV:

• Nasal discharge
• In coordination
• Hind limb weakness
• Loss of tail tone
• Lethargy
• Urine dribbling
• Head tilt
• Leaning against a fence or wall to maintain balance
• Inability to rise

If you think your horse may have been exposed to the virus (while traveling or at a show) start isolation procedures immediately to prevent it from spreading through your whole herd. Check temps of all horse on your farm several times a day, if fever is detected check for EVH-1 and consult with your equine veterinarian for further guidance.

Prevention: There are two things you can do to help prevent an EVH outbreak on your farm:

1. Vaccinate: While there are several vaccines available, unfortunately there is no licensed vaccine that has a claim for protection against the neurological strain of the virus (EHM). Consult with your veterinarian for further guidance.
2. Implement Biosecurity Practices on your farm. This includes quarantining any new animals on the farm, or those that have traveled recently before introducing them to your herd, and washing instruments such as grooming supplies between use on each animal.

Equine Influenza (Flu)

Equine influenza,  is one of the most common infectious diseases of the respiratory tract of horses. This is a highly contagious virus that can be contracted through direct contact with an infected horse or indirectly by contaminated environment. Infected horses incubate the disease for 1-3 days before displaying symptoms, which is why outbreaks can spread so rapidly.  Unfortunately influenza is endemic in the US, which means it circulates continuously in the equine population.

Signs of Equine Influenza 

• Fever
• A harsh, dry cough of sudden onset that persists for 2-3 weeks or more
• Clear nasal discharge progressing to thick, green-yellow discharge
• Lethargy/depression
• Loss of appetite

Prevention: 

Implementing good biosecurity practices including quarantining of newly arrived or traveling horses for at least 14 days. There are also vaccinations available that can be used before exposure. Consult with your veterinarian regarding vaccinating your horse.

Streptococcus equi (Strangles)

Strangles is an infectious horse disease characterized by abscessation of the lymphoid tissue of the upper respiratory tract. Streptococcus equi equi, is the bacterium which causes the disease, and is transmitted by direct contact with infected horses or sub-clinical shedders, or indirectly by contact with: water troughs, hoses, feed bunks, pastures, stalls, trailers, tack, grooming equipment, nose wipe cloths or sponges, attendants’ hands and clothing, or insects contaminated with nasal discharge or pus draining from lymph nodes of infected horses.

Signs of Strangles:

• Fever (103°–106°F)
• Nasal discharge
• Depression
• Difficulty swallowing
• Respiratory noise
• Extended head and neck
• Swollen lymph nodes

In some outbreaks and in a small percentage of cases, these abscesses spread to other parts of the body (a condition known as ‘bastard’ strangles) which is nearly always fatal. As with the other diseases above, contact your vet if you think your horse is showing signs of strangles for treatment. Due to being so contagious, affected horses should be separated, and cared for by separate caretakers wearing protective clothing.

Prevention: 

Vaccination is often the best preventive measure for Strangles. Contact your veterinarian for guidance.

Tetanus (Lockjaw)

Tetanus is caused by the bacterium Clostridium tetanii which can be found in soil and manure. This bacteria is found in just about every environment, and can survive for long periods of time. Wound contamination is generally what leads to infection; a clean wound is not as likely to result in tetanus.

The tetanus bacteria do not need oxygen  and multiply rapidly in the damaged tissues.  They produce a toxin (tetanus toxin) and it is this neurotoxin that causes the classical signs of tetanus. 

Tetanus proves deadly in 50-75% of cases.

Signs of Tetanus:

• Muscular stiffness and spasms
• Difficulty moving and eating
• Tail often held straight out
• Development of an anxious expression due to facial spasms 
• Sweating 
• In advanced cases the horse will collapse with spasms, convulsions and death from respiratory failure

Prevention: 

Tetanus is a preventable disease, and vaccination is key to prevention. Good first aid practices are also important which include keeping wounds clean and ensuring your turn out areas are safe, clean, and clear of dangerous items that could cause injury. Consult with your veterinarian to ensure you are taking the necessary prevention measures on your farm.

Source: MannaPro 

Why Is My Dog Vomiting White Foam?

Why Is My Dog Vomiting White Foam?

Is your dog vomiting white foam? Let’s look at some of the reasons for a dog vomiting white foam and find out what to do next when your dog is throwing up white foam.

Is your dog vomiting white foam? Bearing witness to your dog vomiting white foam can be disconcerting at the best of times and cause dog owners to panic at the worst. There are so many reasons for digestive upset in dogs, and they share so many similar symptoms, that general upset can be difficult for veterinarians to diagnose quickly. While some of the causes for a dog vomiting white foam — such as a dog finding rotting food in the garbage or ingesting a foreign object — can occur to any dog at any time, you can manage, treat or prevent the riskiest and most dangerous reasons for a dog vomiting white foam.

First, why is your dog vomiting white foam?

A dog who gets sick once before returning to normal is likely to have eaten something she shouldn’t. If a dog throws up several times in a day or for more than a couple of days in a row, on the other hand, schedule a veterinary appointment. The leading causes for a dog vomiting white foam include internal injury, infection and inconsistent eating habits. The major ones we’ll examine for a dog vomiting white foam include:

1. Ingesting toxins, poisons, foreign objects
2. Bilious vomiting syndrome
3. Bloat
4. Kennel cough
5. Pancreatitis and other digestive inflammations
6. Parvovirus
7. Rabies

1. A dog vomiting white foam may have eaten something strange

Eating a foreign object can lead to an upset stomach, indigestion or intestinal blockages, all of which might reasonably point to a dog vomiting white foam. With the exception of dog toys, small, loose objects should be kept well out of the reach of indoor dogs. Household items that are toxic to dogs — especially household cleaners that not dog safe and pesticides directed toward insects or rodents — can also cause adverse reactions, like a dog vomiting white foam.

2. Your dog might be throwing up foam because of Bilious vomiting syndrome

Bilious Vomiting Syndrome in dogs is similar to acid reflux in humans. Bile and stomach acid are naturally occurring fluids that aid in the digestion and processing of food. On an empty stomach, however, they can cause irritation. That irritation can lead an otherwise healthy and hungry dog to ignore meals, or, in more extreme situations, vomit to expel the excess. The vomit from Bilious Vomiting Syndrome can be colored yellow, white, green, orange, brown or some mixture. Sometimes, it’s accompanied by slimy mucus.

Feeding an active dog smaller meals at regular intervals throughout the day — including a small snack first thing in the morning and last thing at night — may be the best and easiest way to address what could become a more serious problem. If excess stomach acid or bile are at fault, over the course of her life, a dog who produces excess digestive fluids can suffer from damage to her stomach or intestinal lining, leading to more serious digestive issues as she ages.

An alternate solution is acid-reducing medications. Consult with your dog’s veterinarian, who can recommend an antacid which may also help relieve your dog’s suffering, especially if your work schedule prevents you from being able to physically give your dog meals throughout the day.

3. Bloat may cause dogs to vomit white foam

Bloat, also known as gastric torsion or stomach dilation, is an extremely serious condition in dogs. In the worst cases, a dog’s stomach literally becomes twisted from its normal position in the abdomen. This not only traps air, food and fluids in the stomach, but it also restricts blood flow.

One of its early symptoms, before all movement into and out of the stomach cuts off, is a dog vomiting white foam. This condition most commonly occurs in deep-chested adult and senior dogs. While the precise reasons for it are unclear, prevention consists mainly of making sure dogs are not overactive just after meals.

4. A dog vomiting white foam can be a sign of kennel cough

Kennel cough is a mild illness, most commonly contracted in multi-dog households, at boarding facilities, veterinary offices, dog parks, and places where training classes are held. Wherever a large number of dogs are present, this upper respiratory infection can strike.

If a dog vomiting white foam has recently been in one of these situations, a veterinarian may reach a diagnosis much more quickly. Other symptoms to look out for are a hacking cough and eye discharge, or a runny nose. Kennel cough also tends to be a self-limiting sickness, typically running its course in about two weeks.

5. Pancreatitis might cause dogs to vomit white foam

Swelling or inflammation of the pancreas interrupts a dog’s normal digestive functioning. When food cannot be properly and regularly broken down, processed and eliminated, the dog has limited  options for getting rid of the excess material in his stomach. Vomiting is one route, and white foam can accompany it.

Dogs with canine diabetes are at increased risk for developing pancreatitis, which is when white foam in the vomit is also linked to diabetes. Other symptoms include adopting a hunched-over position, noticeable abdominal pain and fever.

6. Parvovirus may cause foamy vomit in dogs

A viral infection seen most frequently in puppies and very young dogs who live in multi-dog homes, dogs get parvo through oral contact with feces. Signs of this illness generally begin within a week to 10 days of exposure to the virus.

Along with your dog vomiting white foam, the most alarming symptom of parvo is diarrhea that contains blood and has a strong odor. This is a deadly disease; however, most early-life combination vaccines help puppies build up immunity to parvovirus. An unvaccinated dog vomiting white foam may indicate parvo as the cause. Consult a vet as soon as possible.

7. A dog vomiting white foam might have rabies

Rabies is the last, and least likely, culprit for a dog vomiting white foam. We’re all familiar with the image of a rabid dog foaming at the mouth, but regurgitating foam only happens in the very last stages. By the time a dog takes to vomiting white foam, observers will have noticed much more worrisome signs, such as aggressive behavior. As with parvo, rabies is preventable with the appropriate vaccines and boosters.

The bottom line on a dog vomiting white foam:

An informed, observant and proactive dog owner has a distinct advantage. This means knowing your dog’s eating habits, noting any deviations, and being able to adjust as circumstances require. Changing the portions and frequency of a dog’s meals, whether she is a growing puppy or an active adult, can help prevent the buildup of bile and acid, which causes later-in-life digestive problems.

Keeping a dog in a clean environment— including regularly sanitized food and water bowls— minimizes the risk of contracting parasites as well as bacterial infections. The two most dangerous reasons for a dog vomiting white foam — parvo and rabies — are largely preventable with proper vaccination.

Source: Dogster