Dog Peeing in the House? What to Know & What to Do

Dog Peeing in the House? What to Know & What to Do

Is your dog peeing in the house, even though he's housetrained? Here’s what may be happening, and how to effectively handle the problem!

Is your dog peeing in the house? You’re not alone. Many dog have accidents even when they’re housetrained, and it can be incredibly frustrating.

But, however annoyed you might feel, a dog peeing in the house isn’t necessarily the thing to blame for this unwanted behavior. Current research shows that dogs aren’t being stubborn if they have an accident but rather responding to some kind of stress or change in their environment. It’s up to you to help alleviate that stress and teach your dog what you want him to do.

Is your dog peeing in the house? Maybe it’s scent marking

There are many reasons behind a dog peeing in the house, and one of the most common is no accident at all. Scent marking is different from a housetraining accident. Dogs who scent mark often leave urine in many different places around the home in small quantities. Toileting accidents tend to produce larger amounts of urine in fewer places.

Dogs are prompted to go where other dogs have eliminated, and ammonia can trigger this response. Since many household cleaners use this chemical, look for an enzymatic, natural cleaner.

A dog peeing in the house can signal a medical issue

If you can rule out scent marking, then a medical issue could be the reason behind a dog peeing in the house. A vet check is a great place to start and will help rule out many different medical conditions that contribute to housetraining problems; for example, gastrointestinal disease, urinary infections, renal failure or canine cognitive dysfunction in older pets.

Housetraining issues may be a response to change

If your dog is given a clean bill of health then ask yourself if anything significant has happened with your situation in the last few weeks or if your dog’s environment has recently changed. Did you move or did someone move in or out of your household? Did you get another pet or lose one, or did you install an electric fence or train your dog with an aversive training tool? Dogs are discerning creatures and are often affected by changes in their environment, including moving, changes in family life (human and animal), changes in routine (nutrition, exercise, enrichment) or the addition of aversive training tools.

When it comes to a dog peeing in the house, look for a pattern

The next thing to look at is your dog’s toileting habits. Is your dog peeing in the house during thunderstormsor when you leave? Does he eliminate when you come in from a walk or the yard? Does your dog sneak away or eliminate in the same place? Finding a pattern can help identify the reasons behind a dog peeing in the house.

For example, if your dog eliminates after coming in from a walk, don’t come inside immediately after your dog goes. This will teach your dog that eliminating signals the end of outdoor fun, and he will try to hold it!

Go back to basic housetraining

Stop a dog peeing in the house by going back to the basics of potty training dogs:

1. active supervision
2. careful management
3. consistent routine
4. a little bit of training

Rearranging or managing your dog’s environment is the best way to set him up for success and to keep your house pee and poop free! Actively supervising your dog is the key to successful potty training, but supervision means watching your dog all the time.

If you’re not able to actively supervise your dog and look for the “potty dance” (sniffing, circling, hunching, leg lifting), then he’ll need to be crated or confined to a small space where he won’t eliminate. Use leashes, baby gates, bathrooms and crates to confine your dog when you can’t supervise him. However, your dog must receive sufficient exercise and mental stimulation when not confined to avoid destructive behaviors and loneliness. Brain games, puzzles and play are a great place to start.

Get your dog on a good potty schedule

Start with a good bathroom schedule that goes back to basics, allowing access to outside areas every hour. Take your dog outside to eliminate after waking, eating, drinking excessively, playing, training, napping and if you see the potty dance. Feed your dog at set times so you can predict when he might need to go.

Limit water after a certain time in the evening if your dog is having accidents at night. Ice cubes can help your dog take water in at a slower pace while still quenching his thirst.

Gradually decrease the frequency of trips outside as your dog builds up control. Follow a schedule that builds up a predictable and reliable routine, and be patient and sensitive as your dog learns.

Keep this in mind: If your dog has had an accident and you weren’t there to catch him, it’s too late to redirect him. Never rub his nose in it. This will only delay his success and build up a negative association with you.

Being patient, with consistent guidance and support, will get your dog back on track and keep the dog accidents to a minimum.

Source: Dogster

5 Home Remedies for Fleas on Dogs

5 Home Remedies for Fleas on Dogs

From treating your dog to treating your home, we’ve found a few easy home remedies for fleas on dogs.

There are several medical flea treatments that work wonders at stopping fleas from wreaking havoc on your pup, but that doesn’t mean you can’t try some home remedies for fleas on dogs, too!

Fleas on dogs can be a real bummer for you and a health hazard for your dog. If you take your dog to the vet with a skin irritation one of the first questions your vet will ask will be, “what flea treatment do you have your pup on?” Let’s take a look at a few different home remedies for fleas on dogs.

1. Home remedies for fleas on dogs — treating your dog from the outside:

We’ve talked about how vinegar is a great, pet-friendly cleaning solution, but it’s also used in home remedies for fleas on dogs. It turns out that fleas don’t like the smell of vinegar and you can use that to your advantage.

What you need:

1. A clean spray bottle, one that hasn’t had any chemical cleaning products in it.
2. White vinegar and apple cider vinegar (ACV) both work. Pick your favorite, whatever is in your cupboard already or what’s on sale.

What to do: 

1. Mix water and vinegar together. The most effective solution is a 1:1 ratio. If your dog finds that smell offensive, you can dilute as much as 1:3, vinegar to water.
2. Spray your dog, making sure to avoid his eyes and any open sores. Let your dog’s fur air dry. Repeat this at-home flea treatment for a couple of days.
3. If your dog doesn’t like the spray bottle, soak a washcloth in the mixture and wipe your pup down with it.

2. Home remedies for fleas on dogs — treating your dog from the inside:

There are home remedies for fleas on dogs that can treat your dog from the inside, too. Apple cider vinegar added to your dog’s water bowl can give your dog’s skin an acidy taste that will make him less attractive to fleas.

What you need:

1. Apple cider vinegar (ACV)
2. Water
3. Dog’s water bowl

What to do:

1. A good rule of thumb is to mix a teaspoon of ACV for every quart of water. It’s best to consult your vet to see what amount of vinegar a dog of your pup’s weight can safely ingest.
2. Your pup may turn up his nose at this new liquid mix. If so, start with just a tiny amount of ACV and increase the strength as your dog gets used to the smell and taste.

3. Home remedies for fleas on dogs — keep your yard flea free and dog safe:

Keeping your yard flea free (but still dog safe!) is one of the most effective home remedies for fleas on dogs since it’s preventative. Here’s how:

1. Diatomaceous Earth – Food-grade diatomaceous earth is a natural and safe product made from the fossilized remains of tiny organisms. The silica that make up these organisms absorbs into insects with an exoskeleton, like fleas, and causes them to dry out and die. When you use it outside, just liberally sprinkle it everywhere you think fleas may be hiding out.
2. Sun – Fleas, much like their blood-sucking vampire relatives, don’t love the sun. Keep your garden as shade free as possible.
3. Plant an herb garden – Planting strong-smelling herbs near your doors and windows can help prevent fleas from hanging around too long. Try thyme, sage, clove, basil, lavender or mint.
4. Natural predators – Snakes, ants, beetles, spiders, frogs and lizards eat fleas. In fact, you can add natural predators to your yard! Nematodes are multicellular animals that are deadly to flea pupae and larval. You can purchase them online or at a local garden store.

4. Home remedies for fleas on dogs — keep your dog’s items flea free with heat:

Your secret weapon to keep your dog’s bedding, linens, clothes and toys flea free is heat. Anything that can be safely washed in hot water and dried on high heat, should be weekly. Fleas won’t survive the double attack of heat.

5. Home remedies for fleas on dogs — make your home unfriendly to fleas with natural house sprays:

Vacuuming is one of your best home remedies for fleas on dogs, but you can also pay extra attention to your dog’s favorite lounging spots with one of the following homemade house sprays:

1. Lemon – Cut up a lemon and steep it in water overnight. Add it to a spray bottle and you have a pleasant-smelling homemade flea repellant that can safely be used near your pup’s favorite spots or even on him.
2. Salt – Clean hardwood floors and tile floors around your dog’s bed with a salt/water mix.
3. Essential Oils – Rosemary, tea tree and lavender don’t smell good to fleas. You can use them to help keep your living space smelling nice — and staying flea free. But use essential oils with caution. Some essential oils are harmful to pets. Talk to a vet to ensure that the scent and the way you are using the oil are safe for your dog.

Hopefully you’ll only need preventive home remedies for fleas on dogs this season.

Source: Dogster 

5 Tips to Make Vet Visits Less Stressful for Your Cat

5 Tips to Make Vet Visits Less Stressful for Your Cat

Anyone who has had the "pleasure" of taking a cat for a vet visit knows that it's no picnic. It usually begins with a wrestling match to get the cat into a carrier. If you manage to survive with only a few scratches, consider yourself lucky. Then comes the "drive of doom," where he will demonstrate his well-developed hissing and howling talents, followed by an excruciatingly long wait in the clinic's lobby, where your cat will either retreat into the fetal position in the corner of his carrier or pace wildly within it, meowing at you in what sounds a lot like the feline version of profanity.

It's no wonder that a recent survey revealed that two-thirds of cat parents take their pets to the vet less then once a year, in part because of "feline resistance" to the experience. It seems that cats have declared war on veterinary care. Unfortunately, it's a war they're winning handily.

You may be one of the precious few humans whose cat is as cool as a cucumber at the vet. If so, read no further. If not, there are things you can do to help your pet relax during trips to the vet and get the most out of his medical exam. Feline healthcare may never be a walk in the park, but you can make it more manageable with our five tips for making vet visits less stressful for your cat.

1. Perform regular at-home check-ups.

One of the best things you can do for your cat is give him regular head-to-tail check-ups at home. Even if you don't know what you're looking for, simply getting him used to being handled will help enormously at the vet. What's more, those home check-ups mean you're more likely to notice a problem with your cat should one arise.

Another very important stress reducer is getting your pet is accustomed to being in a carrier. If he only gets into the carrier to see the vet, chances are he'll resist it. Instead, create a link between the carrier and fond feelings by incorporating the carrier into your daily lives. Let your cat use it as a nap space and offer treats when he's inside. You could also try occasionally leaving it open on the living room floor, incorporating it into playtime with your favorite feline friend.

Going to the vet is inevitably going to create some stress and anxiety in your cat. You can reduce this by offering plenty of love and affection before the trip. It may help calm you too; studies suggest that petting and playing with pets can reduce stress levels in humans. This is a great ritual for the hour before your vet visit. You and your pet are both going to need to be as chill as possible before getting into the car, which felines would probably call the "purring tank of terror," if they were actually able to speak.

2. Get your cat used to car rides. 

Much of what sets cats on edge during vet visits is the journey, not the destination. As a general rule, cats hate cars. This is because cats like things to be familiar and predictable, and cars are not a typical part of any cat's daily life. Cats' aversion to cars is reinforced by the fact that, for many, the only time they go inside a vehicle is on the dreaded vet visit. This creates a strong association between two potentially negative events, which may make each seem worse than it actually is.

Some cats will never relax inside a car, but most can get used to the driving drill with a bit of practice. Start by taking short drives (e.g., a 5 minute trip around the block) and gradually increase the length of your excursions. You might try stopping by the vet for a visit even if you don't have a check-up scheduled, especially if your vet has friendly staff that will make the trip an enjoyable experience.

The goal in acclimating your pet to car travel is to dissociate it from the vet experience. If you can teach your cat to relax during car trips, your little purr machine is more likely to arrive at the vet in a calm enough state to cope with the experience, which inevitably begins with an extended stay in the waiting room of doom.

3. Comfort your cat in the waiting room.

The waiting room of a veterinary office can be a very scary place for felines -- filled with barking dogs, hissing cats, and any number of anxious humans. It's normal for your pet to be nervous in this setting. After all, felines are typically solitary and highly predatory animals (mine is attacking my fingers as I type). This is why it's best to leave your cat in his carrier rather than take him into your arms in the waiting room. Not only will he feel safer, he'll be less likely to scratch you in an effort to break free or to get into a skirmish with another animal.

The type of carrier you use can also help reduce vet-related stress for your cat. It should be large enough so that he can stand, stretch, and make a full turn. According to Jessica Beymer, DVM, of the Contra Costa Veterinary Emergency Center in Concord, Calif., hard carriers are a good option since they have a top-loading feature that makes it easy to lift out a scared cat. Beymer also recommends covering the carrier with a towel or blanket - preferably one with the scent of home - in order to limit stimuli in the waiting room, which can be agitating for an anxious animal.

To help your cat relax at the vet, you might also try a pheromone spray, which contains a synthetic form of the scent that cats rub against each other and their loved ones to reinforce social bonds. According to Dr. Beymer, some cats are calmed by it, while others are not. However, at a cost of about $25 for a one-month supply, it's a cheap enough experiment if your cat is really having a problem.

Scheduling appointments during less the vet's least busy times can help minimize chaos and long waits.

But if you can't, remember that it helps your cat if you remain calm in the veterinary waiting room, despite delays. Your cat will take cues from you, and this becomes particularly important when you're ready to leave the waiting area and meet the vet.

4. Comfort your cat during the exam. 

Veterinarians are no different than other healthcare providers when it comes to bedside manner. A few minutes of casual interaction puts patients at ease, especially the fearful feline ones. Most vets will do this anyway. If yours does not, ask him or her to take a few minutes to break the ice with your cat before diving into the exam. And remember, a friendly rapport between you and the vet can go a long way toward putting your pet at ease.

There is no getting around the fact that your cat will be poked and prodded during vet visits. But you can ease the discomfort by talking to your pet in a soothing voice during the experience. It also helps to bring something from home such as a towel or blanket to set him on and a favorite toy or treat that you can use to distract your cat during the check-up.

Keep in mind that each visit to the vet is your opportunity to ask questions and prepare yourself for the job of taking care of kitty at home. Also, don't be afraid to call your vet between appointments if you have additional questions or concerns. If you feel your vet is unresponsive look for another one. Your pet's health depends on having a positive relationship with his caregivers. This will become critically important if your pet ever requires an overnight or extended stay in a veterinary clinic.

5. Prepare your cat for an overnight stay. 

No cat wants to spend the night away from home, especially not for veterinary care. Unfortunately, there are many reasons a cat might need to spend a night at the vet, including routine procedures such as spaying/neutering or to receive treatment for an illness or injury. This can be very stressful for cats, but there are things you can do to help your pet cope get through it.

When a cat needs to spend a night at the clinic, it helps to have an object from home. Keep in mind that it's the scent of something familiar that's most important, not what the cat will actually do with the object. For this reason, a blanket or piece of clothing with your scent on it is better than a toy. Most animals won't feel like playing in a hospital setting.

Sending your pet for an overnight stay is going to be stressful for you too. It may ease your mind to visit the area where your pet will stay and to ask questions about the overnight staffing, procedures for communicating with you, and whether or not you can visit if your pet is staying more than one night. Some cats may be comforted by a visit, but others may be confused by seeing you come and go. Be sure to ask your vet for guidance on this.

Vet-related stress causes major resistance to veterinary care among cats and their human companions, and veterinarians are working toward solutions for making the process easier for everyone involved. Two groups, the International Society for Feline Medicine and the American Association of Feline Practitioners, have recently developed guidelines to help veterinary staff improve their handling of cats. Their goal is to enhance the feline-friendliness of veterinary practices in order to improve the rate of vet visits among cats worldwide. This is great news for pets and their humans. We're definitely going to need all hands (and paws) on deck to make trips to the vet less stressful for cats.

Source: Animal Planet 

6 Things to Remember When You Have a Fearful Dog

Have a Fearful Dog? Keep These 6 Things in Mind

Dealing with a fearful dog is a challenge. Here are six great tips on how to cope with a nervous dog from a dog mom who parents a truly scared dog.

My dog Mayzie was rescued by Second Chance Animal Rescue in Colorado. At the time, she was approximately two years old and had spent her entire life at the end of a rope in someone’s backyard. She had little food and water and only the frame of a drawer for shelter. To our knowledge, she had never lived in a house until she went to live with her foster mom. When we adopted her two months later, we knew her history and that she was a “sensitive” dog. But beyond that, we really had no idea what we were getting into. Truth be told, I’m not sure we could ever have been prepared for the enormous project we were undertaking. Mayzie was a truly fearful dog. She was quite literally afraid of everything.

A list of “Items That Terrified Mayzie” included: hardwood floors, stairs, the oven, the dishwasher, the BBQ grill, the umbrella on our patio set, the wind, ceiling fans, walks, getting in the car, getting out of the car … Well, you get the idea.

Today, though, with a lot of hard work, patience and cheese therapy, Mayzie is a happy, funny, confident dog. Sure, there are things that still scare her, but she now has the tools she needs to deal with most things that come her way.

But, oh, I remember how challenging those first few days, weeks and years were. And I realize now that while there are many resources out there on how to help a fearful dog, they generally don’t prepare the human for the unique challenges and rewards that come along with it.

So if you’re just starting your journey or have been at it for a while, here are some tips to help your fearful dog.

1. A fearful dog’s journey isn’t a straight line — don’t expect it to be

Humans seem to be hardwired to want to get someplace by the shortest, most direct path. When it comes to working with a fearful dog, however, it’s best to accept that you’re going to be taking the scenic route. You should prepare for setbacks and breakdowns, and you may have to take an alternate route every once in awhile.

The fact is, setbacks are going to happen and they’re perfectly normal when it comes to a fearful dog. But that doesn’t mean you’ve failed. Even in the worst case scenario, you’re likely not going to go back to the place you started. If you stay the course, you’ll be gaining ground and moving forward toward your goal. So when detours happen, acknowledge them but don’t let yourself be discouraged by them.

2. Learn to enjoy the perspective

After adopting Mayzie, I became hypervigilant about everything around us. What were the potential triggers on our walks? What might cause her to fly into a panic in the house? Frankly, it was stressful because it seemed that Mayzie’s many boogeymen were always lurking just around the corner.

But then I slowly began to realize something: I was seeing things in a way I never had before. Maybe the flowers in one of my neighbor’s gardens had begun to bloom. Or maybe another put up a new fence. And, wow, I never noticed that beautiful weeping willow down the street before. Once I began looking at the world through Mayzie’s eyes, I not only helped her, I received the gift of appreciating the world around me in a whole new way.

3. Revel in small victories when it comes to scared dogs

One morning on our walk, Mayzie stopped dead in her tracks and backed up several steps, her body low to the ground. I immediately became extra alert. What threat had I missed? Then I saw it. After a hard rain the night before, a large dahlia bloom had dropped onto the sidewalk and into our path. Any other dog wouldn’t have even noticed. Not Mayzie. This was new and different, and in the past it might have sent her into a panic to get away. I stood still, studying her for clues on the best course of action.

Not sure how to tell when your dog is scared? These are some signs of a scared dog >>

As I watched, she slowly crept her front legs forward, her neck outstretched, while somehow keeping her back legs poised for flight. Closer and closer she inched until she was finally nose-to-bud with the flower. As soon as she sniffed it, all tension released from her body. “Duh, mom, it’s a flower! And you were so scared,” she seemed to say as she trotted happily away. To anyone else, it might have seemed inconsequential. But to me it was another example of how far this fearful dog had come. I smiled all the way home.

4. There will be tough days and you might want to give up

About two weeks after we adopted Mayzie, we had a really, really bad day. Everything that could go wrong, did. I was at my wit’s end and felt completely in over my head. As my husband and I climbed into bed, I broke into sobs and blurted out, “I don’t know if we can do this! Maybe we should give her back to the rescue.” I shocked even myself by saying that. I was raised to believe that an animal, like a child, is a lifetime commitment, but I was tired and frustrated and simply didn’t know what to do.

My husband looked me in the eye and said, “She’s ours now and we’re not giving up on her. You’ll feel better after you’ve slept.” And you know what? He was right. I woke with a better outlook and renewed determination to help my dog. That wasn’t our last bad day, by any means, but I was better prepared for them in the future.

5. Just remember — a fearful dog does get better

Five years ago, I never would have believed where Mayzie is today. Never. I couldn’t have conceived of a reality where she would love to go for walks or that I could flip on the ceiling fan without a second thought. Yet here we are. Some days/weeks/months, it felt like we were making no progress at all. But looking back on it, I realize that things were getting better even if it was hard to see at the time.

One of the best pieces of advice I got was to start a journal to keep track of progress. I started a blog. You might prefer a notebook. But whatever you do, write it down. It’s so helpful on the difficult days to read about how far you’ve come, how much progress you’ve made and how it really has gotten better.

6. Parenting a fearful dog is one of most rewarding things you’ll ever do

I can’t even begin to count all the hours and money I’ve invested in helping Mayzie become the dog she is today: happy, healthy and with a full, rich life. Is she “normal” (whatever that means)? Well, no, I guess not and probably never will be. She was too far behind the eight ball to ever catch up completely. But every minute and every dollar I’ve spent have been worth it. All the work we’ve done together has created a trust and a bond that is rare and unbreakable. It’s been an amazing, challenging, crazy roller-coaster of a ride, and I’d do it all over again in a heartbeat.

Source: Dogster 

10 Summer Dangers for Dogs — And How to Avoid Them

10 Summer Dangers for Dogs — And How to Avoid Them

Summer isn’t officially here — yet — but temperatures are climbing up across the country. Check out 10 ways to keep your dog safe as the weather warms.

The dog days of summer are opportunities for fun in the sun with Fido, but the hot summer weather also brings the following top health and safety concerns.

1. Walking dogs on hot pavement

Walks are a great way to keep your dog physically and mentally exercised, but in the summer months they come with some specific health concerns. Emmy award-winning veterinarian Dr. Jeff Werber cautions that dog parents should pay special attention to the pavement and how hot it is. “Remember, even after dark the pavement retains heat and can injure your dog’s pads,” he says.

Not sure if it’s too hot? Place your hand on the pavement. If you have to pull your own hand away because it’s too hot for you, then it’s too hot for your dog’s paws.

Plan your dog walks for early morning hours, late afternoon or early evening, and always avoid having your dog out in the midday heat. If you must walk your dog in the heat of the day invest in booties to protect your dog’s sensitive pads from the hot pavement.

2. Riding in cars

When driving with your dog in the summer, always keep the air conditioning on for the safety and comfort of your dog. “If the car is too hot for you, then it’s too hot for your dog,” Dr. Werber explains.

Cars are dangerous places for dogs in summer heat, and dogs should never be left in a parked car, even in the shade or in a parking garage. Even with the windows cracked, temperatures inside a car increase rapidly and can quickly be fatal to your dog.

3. Leaving dogs outside

Increasingly, cities and states are instituting new legal protections for dogs that prohibit them being left outside in extreme cold or hot temperatures. In Pennsylvania, for example, people who leave dogs outside in over 90-degrees Fahrenheit heat could face steep fines or even jail time.

If for some reason your dog must be left outside, Dr. Werber advises that your dog must be provided free access to water. In addition, your dog must be able to get either natural shade or consistent shade created by an awning or other structure.

4. Brachycephalic dogs overheating

While hot weather can be dangerous for all dogs, there are particular breeds more at risk in hot weather due to breathing problems — dogs with more pushed-in faces (brachycephalic dogs) such as: Pugs, French Bulldogs, Boston Terriers, Boxers, Staffordshire Bull Terriers, Bulldogs, Shih Tzus, Pekingese, Affenpinschers, Japanese Chins, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, Lhasa Apsos and Brussels Griffons.

These dogs are better off inside in air conditioning during the hottest of summer months.

Japanese Chins are particularly at risk in hot weather. Dr. Werber also cautions that “Pekingese and Lhasa Apso have more thickness around their necks than other breeds and are more inclined to having pharyngeal stenosis. This can make breathing and panting more challenging, which is why you often hear them ‘snoring.’ These breeds are more prone to overheating.”

Before traveling, check with the airlines on any pet restrictions during warm weather months.

5. Heatstroke

Dogs pant to cool down, but ongoing panting can be a sign that your dog is overheating and in distress. If your dog has been in the heat, is incessantly panting, has slowed down, appears extremely tired and doesn’t want to move, Dr. Werber cautions that the dog could be experiencing heatstroke, which can be fatal.

If you think your dog has heatstroke, get him to a veterinarian right away. While en route, Dr. Werber says to dribble water into your dog’s mouth to keep it moist and try to soak down the feet as well as the body, which should help to bring down your dog’s overall body temperature. He advises that “room temperature water is best — you don’t want to cool them down too quickly.”

6. Not drinking enough water

Year-round, but especially in the summer heat, it’s essential that your dog has constant access to fresh water. Because risk of dehydration in dogs increases in the summer heat, make sure your dog stays hydrated while you are out enjoying the warm weather. Always carry water for your dog and have a travel water bowl with you for hikes and outings, but also for neighborhood walks. Take frequent breaks to give your dog an opportunity to drink. Dr. Werber also encourages dog guardians to “soak a bandanna in water and freeze it overnight. Wrap it around your dog’s neck before a walk.”

At home, up the amount of water you give your dog, especially if you are away from the house all day. A dog water fountain is even better, as it provides lots of fresh water all day long.

7. Shaving your dog could actually be harmful

A fur coat might look hot in the summer heat, but your dog’s fur actually keeps them cool. AKC executive secretary, Gina DiNardo, explains that while it might be tempting to give your pup a cool summer trim or shave, doing so might actually be harmful.

“People tend to think that doublecoated breeds suffer more in hot weather because of the massive amounts of coat,” she says. “However, this is not the case. Their coat traps the air closest to the skin and keeps it the same temperature as their ideal body temperature. Also, if you shave a dog down to the skin, you not only increase the risk of heatstroke, but sunburn, too.”

Gina also advises that dogs who have hair instead of fur such as Poodles and Bichons can be shaved in the summer, but to keep enough coat to protect the dog’s skin from the sun.

8. Sunburn

There are a variety of canine sunscreens on the market that can help to protect your dog’s sensitive skin from sun damage. Don’t use human sunscreens on dogs, as they usually include zinc or other ingredients not safe for dogs to ingest (since dogs lick everything!).

Sunscreen is important for areas of your dog’s body that are more exposed, such as right above the nose, the belly, abdomen and groin area. Short-coated and light-colored dogs are especially at risk of sunburns. Hairless dogs should always wear sunscreen when out in the summer.

9. Ticks

Beyond being a painful nuisance, ticks can transmit serious disease to your dog including Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. Make sure your dog is up-to-date on flea/tick prevention, and know what diseases ticks in your area of the country spread. Carry a tick remover, and check your dog for ticks after walks.

10. Swimming concerns

Yes, dogs can drown. No, not all dogs know how to swim. Even if your dog does know how to swim, he can get tired and, unlike humans, he doesn’t know how to do the dead man’s float to rest. Always fit your pup with a canine life vest to support his mid-section and hindquarters to keep him safe. The handle at the top also makes it easy to pull your dog out of the water if you are on a boat or paddleboard.

If you have a pool, teach your dog how to safely get in and out, so he doesn’t drown trying to get out. Dogs in pools should also be wearing a canine life vest. Brachycephalic dogs, puppies, seniors, dogs with short legs and long backs and barrel-chested dogs, in particular, should always wear a canine life vest.

Source: Dogster