How to Help a Scared Dog

How to Help a Scared Dog

Do you wonder what causes fear in your dog? Learn what signs to look out for and how to help your dog overcome his fears.

Living with a fearful dog can be challenging for us, but imagine what it’s like for our dogs. Fearful dogs are often misunderstood because they may present with undesirable behaviors, often dubbed “bad behaviors,” such as being stubborn, running and hiding, barking, snarling, growling, lunging and even outright aggression. These misunderstood behavioral displays do not make a dog bad. These behaviors are most often a manifestation of fear or anxiety.

Left untreated, these behavioral displays can become habit or a way of being, leaving dogs unable to cope with the things they fear. Dogs are captive animals living in our human-dominated world. Although they have adapted quite well, they are not free from the stresses caused by living in a human environment.

What does fear look like?

Treating fearful dogs is a welfare issue, as well. Behavioral problems are the No. 1 reason that people relinquish their dogs to shelters. They don’t realize that fear is an emotion, not a behavior. Understanding the emotional state of dogs goes a long way to mitigating the massive numbers of dogs in shelters today.

The expression of fear ranges from obvious to extremely subtle.  Look at these signs:

• rounded body
• tucked tail
• whale eye
• body and facial tension
• panting
• yawning
• ears back
• dilated pupils
• tongue flicking

If your dog is showing these signs of fear, it’s time to begin a treatment plan to help alleviate that fear. These dogs are not “bad,” they are merely expressing some level of stress. Becoming fluent in dog talk is key to understanding and helping a fearful dog become less fearful.

What causes fear?

Some dogs are afraid of other dogs or people, some lacked proper socialization as a puppy during the critical fear period the first 14 weeks of life, while others inherit fearful behaviors from their fearful mother or are genetically predisposed. Other dogs are afraid of different types of surfaces or doorways, noises, and yet others can become fearful because they were punished during training.

Another often overlooked cause of fear is unrecognized pain. Always get veterinary clearance before any kind of behavior modification is offered for a fear-related behavior.

A foundation of trust

We can help dogs feel safe by recognizing the signs of fear or anxiety and then becoming someone they trust. Trust happens when we create an environment that makes them feel safe. As dogs’ advocates and guardians, it’s our duty to be trustworthy.

Learning to see the world from a dog’s perspective helps us be that trusted person. They need a benevolent leader, one who is understanding, compassionate, kind, patient and fluent in dog. They need our undivided attention and know who we are before we can truly help a fearful dog.

Adopting a calm demeanor with a gentle, kind tone of voice, while reassuring and consoling them, allows them to assess and experience their world at their own pace. Fear is an emotion, and we can’t reinforce emotions, only behaviors.

Since fear is an emotion, not a behavior, we know that when dogs are in an emotional state of fear or anxiety, they are incapable of learning. They literally lose the ability to process information, therefore trying to train them while they’re afraid is impossible.

Think about this. If you are afraid of snakes, as I am, it would be impossible to concentrate with even just one snake slithering around you. You couldn’t think of anything else but how to get out of there as quickly as possible.

Dogs are no different. If they are afraid of other dogs and are on leash, unable to get away, even if the dog means no harm, they will not be able to relax until they are far enough away from the dog. At this point, and only at this point, will you be able to start a training program to help alleviate their fear of dogs. While in a state of flight or fight, no learning is possible.

How to help

The techniques we choose to help dogs move through their fears are desensitization or classical counter-conditioning. Never use flooding or punishment, or worse, ignore them, thinking they’ll just get over it. They won’t!

Desensitization is a technique whereby we gradually and systematically expose a dog to something that scares him, starting at a very low level, so we don’t incite the fear. Gradually, over time, we may increase the level of intensity, paying attention to the dog’s emotional state via his body language, keeping him comfortable before moving on to the next level. (Zoologist and Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist, Emeritus, Patricia McConnell, PhD, has a detailed book, The Cautious Canine, that explains this in even more detail.)

We all remember Pavlov’s dog, where the dog salivated every time he heard the bell, anticipating food. This is classical conditioning. We, too, can change the association from fear to comfort by using classical counter-conditioning. By pairing something that the dog is afraid of with something he loves — like his favorite food, toy or game — we can help him overcome his fears. This may take days, months or even years depending on the severity of his fear. The goal being that the dog has a positive emotional response to the fear because he knows that something good is going to happen.

For example, I have a dog who was traumatized in a car before I got him. He was brought to me in the back of a U-Haul truck, filled with household furniture, rattling around his crate in the dark with no food or water for two days straight. He wasn’t carsick, he was traumatized at the sight of a car. He began to shake uncontrollably, pant, whimper and drool all over himself and the car. I used a combination of desensitization and classical counter-conditioning to help him overcome his fear.

Using a high-value treat that I knew he loved (cut up pieces of hot dogs), I made a trail of treats, leading up to and around the car. I didn’t ask him to get in, only had him associate the car with food. Slowly over time, he walked around the car without needing food.

Next step, I opened the car door and got his favorite toy, a ball for fetching. We played fetch around the car. Over a few days of no anxiety around the car, I opened the door and threw pieces of hot dogs in the car. He jumped right in to get the treats. I didn’t do anything else. I let him jump out if he wanted to. I threw treats back in, and he got in three or four times. That’s all I asked for that day.

I repeated this for a few days and the next time, I shut the door and sat inside with him, feeding him treats. This went on for another few days. At every juncture, I paid attention to his body language, making sure there were no signs of fear. If so, we went back to the previous step until he was comfortable again, progressing on his terms.

I increased the amount of time in the car and then started the engine for one minute, increasing the time the engine ran, by minutes. When he was comfy, we backed up in the driveway a few feet and parked, calling it a day. The first trip we took was to a neighbor’s home with his favorite playdate, two doors down. Gradually, over time, we could drive to town, go to a park, play fetch and come home.

Helping a fearful dog requires kindness, patience, consistency, trust and knowledge. The journey we take with our fearful dogs can be the most humbling and gratifying experiences of our lives while dramatically deepening the human-dog bond.

Finding the Right Trainer

When searching for the right fit for you and your fearful dog, look for someone who:

• uses positive rewards
• has science-based training
• is fluent in dog speak
• specializes in fearful dogs

This type of trainer will have the experience and knowledge to help you help your dog. A veterinary behaviorist (not a general practice veterinarian) is also a great choice. Although this can be on the more expensive side, it’s worth it if you can’t find an experienced and knowledgeable trainer. In the United States, at this time, dog training is still an unregulated field, although we do have excellent professional organizations and certifications available to trainers. The law does not require dog trainers to follow only training techniques that don’t cause harm to dogs, so do your research.

Source: Dogster 

House Training a Dog? Try These 5 Tricks

House Training a Dog? Try These 5 Tricks

Struggling when it comes to house training a dog? Whether you're house training a puppy or an older dog, we've got a few tips to try.

House training a dog? I know how it feels. At nine years old, my Yorkie was still not fully housetrained. Rule of thumb when entering the house: Never go barefoot. You never knew where a little wet surprise might be. Smaller breeds may be harder to housetrain, but we were also to blame. With the entire household gone from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. from the beginning, little Jessy didn’t stand a chance. At one point, we even tried doggie diapers. But she was too slick for that — she easily slithered her way out of them.

If you’re thinking of getting a puppy but aren’t quite sure if you have the patience and time for house training a dog, read on. I sought the help of some experts. No dog should be trained without his owner, but a few helping hands along the way isn’t bad either. Here are some tips when it comes to house training a dog:

1. Get a doggy bell

“For stubborn dogs, you may want to invest in a door bell, such as the Potty Time Chime, as it will provide your dog a tool where he can make it very clear to you that he needs to go out,” says Lina Eklof, Petco’s National Dog Training Lead.

2. Act like mama dog if house training a puppy

“A lot of people get frustrated when their puppies go outside and get distracted and want to play,” says veterinarian Cathy Alinovi. “Usually we have something better to do than to wait for the puppy to go to the bathroom. Be patient, and consider that this is when mama dog would lick the puppy’s bottom to get them to the go to the bathroom.” She recommends wiping the bottom of your dog with a warm wet washcloth to trigger the instinct.

3. Try a deluxe pee pad

Pee pads are a successful route to take for most dogs, but when you’re house training a dog who’s stubborn, she may need a positive reinforcement. Enter the Train ’n Praise Potty Training System. The kit includes two pieces — a replaceable moisture-detection pee pad and a treat dispenser. Whenever the pad detects moisture (when your little guy does No. 1 or No. 2), a wireless signal is sent to the treat dispenser so the dog is always rewarded. Imagine that, house training a dog while you’re at work.

4. Use a litter box when house training a dog

For dog owners who spend much of their time away from home, using a litter box may not sound that crazy. It’s similar to crate training; the dog is allotted a limited space for sleeping, eating and the tray. “It is only through repetition and positive reinforcement that the puppy begins to understand the connection between ‘potty’ and the litter tray,” says Jane Wasley, the Puppy Go Potty brand manager.

“To expedite this connection, it is important to establish a regular dog feeding and watering schedule. By monitoring the feeding and watering, you can quickly become attuned to your puppy’s potty frequency and behavior. This will help you know the most likely times to place the puppy in the tray.”

5. Umbilical cord method

“Many training plans are effective if they are well thought out and consistent,” says veterinarian Kathryn Primm. “I like the ‘umbilical cord’ method where I tie the puppy to my belt loop when I am busy or distracted, so that if she goes sniffing and exploring I can feel the tug. Anytime this was not possible, she stayed in her crate to utilize her natural desire to not soil her den.”

If you encounter a problem similar to that of my full-grown Yorkie, who was still not house trained at nine years old, Primm offers some advice.

“Older dogs with elimination problems should be thoroughly worked up by a vet to rule out medical causes. Nothing damages a human-animal bond like inappropriate elimination. Once the medical causes have been ruled out, the same rebuilding of good habits will work on an older dog. The idea is to maximize their natural tendency to not soil their den and gradually increase the trusted area until the ‘den’ is the whole house.”

Source: Dogster 

Dog Peeing in the House? What to Know & What to Do

Dog Peeing in the House? What to Know & What to Do

Is your dog peeing in the house, even though he's housetrained? Here’s what may be happening, and how to effectively handle the problem!

Is your dog peeing in the house? You’re not alone. Many dog have accidents even when they’re housetrained, and it can be incredibly frustrating.

But, however annoyed you might feel, a dog peeing in the house isn’t necessarily the thing to blame for this unwanted behavior. Current research shows that dogs aren’t being stubborn if they have an accident but rather responding to some kind of stress or change in their environment. It’s up to you to help alleviate that stress and teach your dog what you want him to do.

Is your dog peeing in the house? Maybe it’s scent marking

There are many reasons behind a dog peeing in the house, and one of the most common is no accident at all. Scent marking is different from a housetraining accident. Dogs who scent mark often leave urine in many different places around the home in small quantities. Toileting accidents tend to produce larger amounts of urine in fewer places.

Dogs are prompted to go where other dogs have eliminated, and ammonia can trigger this response. Since many household cleaners use this chemical, look for an enzymatic, natural cleaner.

A dog peeing in the house can signal a medical issue

If you can rule out scent marking, then a medical issue could be the reason behind a dog peeing in the house. A vet check is a great place to start and will help rule out many different medical conditions that contribute to housetraining problems; for example, gastrointestinal disease, urinary infections, renal failure or canine cognitive dysfunction in older pets.

Housetraining issues may be a response to change

If your dog is given a clean bill of health then ask yourself if anything significant has happened with your situation in the last few weeks or if your dog’s environment has recently changed. Did you move or did someone move in or out of your household? Did you get another pet or lose one, or did you install an electric fence or train your dog with an aversive training tool? Dogs are discerning creatures and are often affected by changes in their environment, including moving, changes in family life (human and animal), changes in routine (nutrition, exercise, enrichment) or the addition of aversive training tools.

When it comes to a dog peeing in the house, look for a pattern

The next thing to look at is your dog’s toileting habits. Is your dog peeing in the house during thunderstormsor when you leave? Does he eliminate when you come in from a walk or the yard? Does your dog sneak away or eliminate in the same place? Finding a pattern can help identify the reasons behind a dog peeing in the house.

For example, if your dog eliminates after coming in from a walk, don’t come inside immediately after your dog goes. This will teach your dog that eliminating signals the end of outdoor fun, and he will try to hold it!

Go back to basic housetraining

Stop a dog peeing in the house by going back to the basics of potty training dogs:

1. active supervision
2. careful management
3. consistent routine
4. a little bit of training

Rearranging or managing your dog’s environment is the best way to set him up for success and to keep your house pee and poop free! Actively supervising your dog is the key to successful potty training, but supervision means watching your dog all the time.

If you’re not able to actively supervise your dog and look for the “potty dance” (sniffing, circling, hunching, leg lifting), then he’ll need to be crated or confined to a small space where he won’t eliminate. Use leashes, baby gates, bathrooms and crates to confine your dog when you can’t supervise him. However, your dog must receive sufficient exercise and mental stimulation when not confined to avoid destructive behaviors and loneliness. Brain games, puzzles and play are a great place to start.

Get your dog on a good potty schedule

Start with a good bathroom schedule that goes back to basics, allowing access to outside areas every hour. Take your dog outside to eliminate after waking, eating, drinking excessively, playing, training, napping and if you see the potty dance. Feed your dog at set times so you can predict when he might need to go.

Limit water after a certain time in the evening if your dog is having accidents at night. Ice cubes can help your dog take water in at a slower pace while still quenching his thirst.

Gradually decrease the frequency of trips outside as your dog builds up control. Follow a schedule that builds up a predictable and reliable routine, and be patient and sensitive as your dog learns.

Keep this in mind: If your dog has had an accident and you weren’t there to catch him, it’s too late to redirect him. Never rub his nose in it. This will only delay his success and build up a negative association with you.

Being patient, with consistent guidance and support, will get your dog back on track and keep the dog accidents to a minimum.

Source: Dogster

How To Stop Your Dog From Pulling The Leash

How To Stop Your Dog From Pulling The Leash

Source: Dogster

We all have that friend, relative, or rival who walks their dog with expert leash-wielding skills. They aren’t being pulled down the block, tied 'round trees, or tangled up with the friendly neighbor dog who’s also out for an afternoon stroll. I don’t know about you, but I silently envy the person and pet that can walk side-by-side without breaking a sweat. 

And I have to admit, good leash walking skills are important for more than just showing off your pet-parent talents.

“From a relationship perspective,” explains Sarah Fraser, a certified professional dog trainer and co-founder of Instinct Behavior & Training in New York City, “if your dog is walking nicely on a leash, it likely means that your dog is paying more attention to you, making it easier for you to provide direction and guidance as needed along your walk.” 

A leash-puller can also run the risk of accidentally breaking away from your grip, which can pose multiple dangers to your pet if he or she continues to run, not to mention the danger for yourself if you end up face-first on the sidewalk. Having proper leash manners minimizes the risk that you will be pulled over in a moment of overzealous leash yanking and will make the time more about walking and less about tug-of-war. 

“Teaching your dog to walk nicely on a leash allows you to take her more places and for longer walks, because it’s more comfortable and enjoyable for the both of you,” Fraser says. 

Tips for Better Walking Behavior

Whether your dog is big or small, here are six ways to improve your dog’s behavior on a leash:   

Adjust your attitude. 

First, ask yourself: “What would I like him or her to do instead?” Instead of teaching a dog to stop pulling, think of it as teaching your dog how to walk nicely beside you.

Remember it’s all about the rewards. 

One of the easiest and most effective ways to start teaching a dog to walk properly on a dog leash is to reward the dog for paying attention to you and for being in the desired position (next to you or close to you) when out for a walk.

“As the dog learns that walking next to you is a pleasant, rewarding experience, she’ll spend less time pulling and more time walking nicely beside you,” says Fraser. Try using very special treats in the beginning, like small pieces of boiled chicken or roast beef, to really get your dog’s attention, she advises. 

If you are worried about spoiling your pup's meals you can use pieces of dehydrated dog food or freeze-dried dog food from your pup's daily meals. That will help you to make sure you are not overfeeding your dog while also supplying them with tasty incentives for good behavior.

Play the “follow me” game. 

Hold on to your leash and take several backward steps away from your dog. The backward movement is inviting, so your dog is likely to turn and follow you. Say “yes!” as your dog approaches you, then immediately reward him or her with a treat.

“The game helps your dog focus and move with you,” says Fraser. Then back away several steps in another direction. Once again, says “yes!” as your dog approaches and reward him or her with a treat. Repeat this pattern eight to 12 times, until your dog is actively pursuing you when you move away.

Practice on your regular walks.

Once you’ve started your stride, each time your dog looks up at you or walks next to you, says “yes!” and immediately reward him or her with a treat.

Reward often. 

"Frequent rewards will help your dog figure out more quickly what behavior you’re looking for and make the learning process easier for her,” Fraser explains.

“The trick to making this work is using very special treats at first, and keeping your rate of reinforcement high, which just means that you are marking and rewarding often—maybe every 4-5 steps at first—for any and all ‘good’ leash behavior.”

Over time, you can thin out your rate of reinforcement, rewarding your dog less frequently throughout the course of the walk, Fraser adds.

Consider additional assistance. 

“If your dog is already a practiced puller, consider purchasing a quality front clip harness to provide extra control on walks,” Fraser recommends. But if your dog already pulls hard with a no pull dog harness, consider working with a certified, positive reinforcement-based trainer.

Finally, remember that walking on a leash is a skill that takes time and practice for both the pet parent and dog, so celebrate incremental improvements and successes!

Source: PetMD